Monday, October 13, 2014

#sewing: Passport/Travel Wallet take 2

I decided to take advantage of a rainy day to get caught up on some projects. I have made two of these passport travel wallets in the past (with a slightly different tutorial - see earlier Blog Posts) but have been meaning to sew one for myself. We went away on vacation last week and man I sure could have used mine when trying to keep track of both of our passports and boarding passes. 

This particular passport wallet was mirrored after the original blog post on Joann Fabric & Craft Store

Note: For my wallet I chose to use all one pattern of fabric this time. I have made ones in the past that had contrasting colours and they look great, I was just (a) in love with the fabric I chose (I have made curtains for our kitchen from this pattern in the past) and (b) didn't have any fabric that went well with it.

Materials Needed:
- 1m of fabric
- 1 package of interfacing fabric
- thread
- sewing machine
- rotary cutter & mat
- ruler
- straight pins
- scissors
- iron & ironing board
- bias tape (for a border)
- velcro or a button for your snap

#step 1: Prepare your Fabric pieces
Preparing Fabric Pieces
Front & Back Cover and Lining: cut two pieces of fabric 11"L x 11"W and two pieces of interfacing fabric 11"L x 11"W

Left Flap divider, cut two pieces of fabric 11"L x 5.75"W. Draw a curve on the upper right hand corner of both pieces (I used the edge of a bowl; and make sure your corner is on the right edge of a piece of fabric with right-side facing up and a right-side facing down. Otherwise your flap will have the wrong-side on the inside of flap... like mine now does! Whoops!)
Cut one piece of interfacing 11"L x 5.75"W

Passport pocket: cut two 4.75"L x 5"W pieces of fabric
if you would like to add a second passport pocket on top of the one you just cut, cut one piece of 3"L x 4"W clear plastic vinyl. I did not do this step.

Ironing Fusible Interfacing to Fabric
Cardholder Pocket: cut two pieces of fabric 6"L x 3.5"W

Right Flap Divider: cut two pieces of fabric 11"L x 5"W and one piece of interfacing 11"L x 5"W.

With your iron, set the iron to "Wool" heat setting and fuse interfacing to both front & back cover, left flap divider and right flap divider following the instructions on your packaging.


#step 2: Passport Pocket
With right-sides facing together, and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - sew passport pocket pieces. Leave a 2" opening at the top edge of pocket. Turn right side out and press with your iron. I used a pen to make sure the corners were pressed out flat before ironing. 
Edge stitch top opening closed only.

Sizing Passport Pocket
Make sure your passport pocket will fit a Passport first! 

Centre pocket on the left divider 3/4" up from the bottom raw edge. Edge stitch the pocket onto left divider at the sides and bottom of pocket.

With right sides together and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch left divider pieces. Leave  small opening on curved edge below the curve. Turn right side out, use a pen to push out the corners to be flat, press with your iron. 
Note: If you chose to add a second Passport pocket with the vinyl, be sure to only press with your iron on the backside of the divider and ensure you do not melt the vinyl.

Edge stitch curved edge (inside edge of divider) to close up.

#step 3: Cardholder Pocket
With right sides facing together, and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch cardholder pocket pieces. Leave a 1.5" opening at the top edge of pocket. Turn right side out and press with your iron. Repeat steps with pen to make sure corners are pressed out flat before ironing.

Place cardholder pocket on interfaced right divider about 3/4" up from the bottom raw edge and 3/4" from right raw edge of divider. Edge stitch cardholder pocket onto right divider at the top, right side and bottom of the cardholder - leaving the left edge of cardholder pocket open. This will be the pocket opening. 
Placing Cardholder Pocket on Divider


Mark the centre of the cardholder pocket (approximately 2.75" in middle). Stitch a straight horizontal line to create pocket divider for cards.

With right sides facing together, and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch the right divider pieces. Leave a 4" opening at the inside edge (left side of divider). Turn right side out, push corners out with a pen to lay flat before pressing with iron. Press with iron to flatten out. Edge stitch the left side (inside edge) of right divider.

#step 4: Button Loop/Velcro Strap
Fold 1"x4" piece of fabric in half lengthwise (when folded in half, width should be 1/2"). Press with your iron. Open and fold along long edges in to meet at the centre crease. Press with iron again. 
Fold in half lengthwise again so that long folded edges are even. Press with iron & stitch along 4" long edge.

Note: I added bias tape to the outside edge of my strap to add decorative feature. Follow the same steps as above, and when you stitch your bias tape will be stitched on as well.

Velcro Strap to close Wallet
I used velcro to fasten my pouch. Stitch Velcro (sticky side) to one end of strap. Wrap strap around the wallet to align sticky-Velcro with the soft-Velcro where it sticks to. Stitch the soft-Velcro patch to the opposite end of strap. Stitch a horizontal straight line to hold strap to the folded edge of wallet. 

#step 5: Finishing Touches
With right sides facing together and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch Front & Back cover. Leave an opening to pull fabric through to right side out. Pull through, use a pen to press corners out to lay flat, press with iron.

Passport/Travel Wallet
Once front and back cover are sewn together, place and pin the left & right dividers on the inside of your passport case. Make sure all edges are even. Mine don't always line up perfectly, but you can fold the edges in to hide this when you are stitching.


Edge stitch around all outside edges, catching both dividers.

Happy Travelling!
<3 awaLL

Sunday, October 12, 2014

#cleaning: The Honest Company (a review)

In September I signed up for a free trial of The Honest Company Essentials Bundle after using/hearing about their products when visiting friends in Michigan in August. I don't usually "buy into" things that are widely shared and advertised on social media sites (you know what I'm talking about, all those ads that pop up on Facebook newsfeeds and/or Twitter feeds)... But this one I must say, I'm a fan!

Things I love about The Honest Company and their products: 
The Honest Company

- the advertising for a Free Trial was honest. I only paid $6 in shipping for a trial of the Essentials Bundle, and received travel size versions of their Face/Body Lotion, Shampoo/Body Wash, Healing Balm, Hand Soap and Multi-Surface Cleaner.

- I called their Customer Service to inquire about continuing to order the Essential Bundles and whether I was now locked in forever and if I had to order every 4 weeks. Their Customer Service clients were awesome! She explained to me that I could space my orders out up to 6 weeks online, or call to increase the time in between if I wish. I could put in one order or a few orders in a year if I wanted, there was no minimum. And I was not locked in to anything, at any time I could call and ask to cancel if I was no longer satisfied/interested.

Cool!
So I ordered an Essentials Bundle with five full-sized products for $50 (after tax and shipping costs). Not too bad if you ask me!

Products I have tried and would like to rave about...
#1: Face & Body Lotion
I have sensitive skin and a lot of moisturizers irritate my skin and cause breakouts and my skin to dry out. Yes, even some of the ones that boast they are for sensitive skin. 'Honestly' (pun intended) I am so satisfied with this product for my face I will not go back to anything else. No breakouts, my skin is glowing and feels so great all the time.
Sold.

#2: Healing Balm
I still have the travel size on the go because I use it for particular things. No lie, I got some awful blisters from my curling shoes this August on both of my heels and Polysporin was not doing the trick to heal these suckers. Once they were at the stage that they were mostly drying out and painful, I applied some of the Healing Balm and it seriously cleared them right up! (after a few applications of course). So my boyfriend burns himself by handling a pan out of the oven, I told him to apply the Healing Balm - et voila after a few times it cleared up. I'm not sure what magical healing power is in this stuff but it's straight out of a Disney film!

#3: Shampoo/Body Wash
I used the travel size bottle while on vacation last week and it did the trick. Smells nice and didn't find it was anything out of the ordinary. I also have a favourite shampoo/conditioner so I didn't bother trying it in my hair.

#4: Hand Soap - nothing outstanding about it but it smells great and does the trick, so great addition to the Essentials Bundle as an option when I don't need anything else

#5: Multi-Surface Cleaner
I use this in our bathroom, kitchen, my desk at work, the coffee table and dinning room table at home, my dressers, etc. It's fantastic, smells wonderful (citrus grapefruit scent) and literally cleans anything in the house with a beautiful shine!

#6: Bathroom Cleaner
Minty Eucalyptus scent, cleans everything right up and makes me feel good about using it on a surface we interact with every day because I'm not fearful of the strong cleaning agents used in other products like Vim.

#7: Bubble Bath - glorious! Very sudsy - so don't need a lot in a bath. Nice Grapefruit scent to it too.

#8: Stain Remover
Okay so this stuff is another miracle product. While we were on vacation last week I got some Papa John's pizza garlic sauce on my favourite white t-shirt, I was ticked. And this wasn't any creamy garlic dipping sauce like Pizza Pizza, it was oily. So I spot cleaned with water at the hotel and hoped that my stain remover would do the trick when I got home. I applied once and washed it, almost came out. Applied & washed again and from what I can tell - the stains are gone! Amazing! It boasts being able to take wine out of furniture/carpet and remove blood stains - it's the truth!

I'm looking forward to the arrival of my next bundle this week which will include the 4-in-1 Laundry Packs (pods), Toilet Cleaner, Window & Glass Cleaner, Mandarin Foaming Hand Soap and Air & Fabric Freshener spray in Lavender Vanilla.

Check out The Honest Company - you won't regret it! Click here for my personal invitation page.

Happy Cleaning!
awaLL 

#sewing: Soft & Cuddly Baby Blanket

September 28, 2014 Project:
In the past year, our Book Club has expanded to a Junior Book Club section with two sweetheart babies and we have one on the way (very soon). So naturally some of my #sewing projects of late have taken on a baby theme because so many of the popular baby finds are easy to replicate and so much more fun when it is made with love for your friend. 

Last week a baby shower was hosted for our Book Club lady and her little one on the way, so I decided to whip up a soft & cuddly baby blanket - pattern tested and approved by my niece since she has her own which she loves. (The Minky Dot fabric is so soft it feels like a puppy's ear! I want to make a blanket out of it for myself and wrap up in it!!!) 

The pattern I used for this blanket comes from the Greener Grass blog 

Materials Needed:
- 1.5 yards of light weight, soft fleecy-cotton fabric
- 1.5 yard of Minky Dot material
- Rotary Cutter and Mat
- Ruler
- Safety Pins
- Straight Pins
- Thread
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Iron and Ironing Board

#step 1: Prepare Fabric
Cut a 45" x 45" square from your Fleece Fabric and from your Minky Dot Fabric
Note: i allowed for a few extra inches on either side because the Minky Dot fabric was a little trickier to cut since it is much closer to a 'silky' texture and slides around.
Minky Dot Fabric


Fleece Cotton & Minky Dot fabrics
Once you have your squares cut, create a rounded corner (on each corner) by simply tracing something with a round edge, like a bowl and cut. Repeat for corners of all fabric.

Next, lay your fabrics out with right sides facing together. Don't worry if your edges don't line up perfectly - you can trim them later and/or fold them into the blanket after sewing and turning it inside out.

Use the safety pins to secure the fabrics together, this will help keep the cotton fabric from slipping too much on the Minky Dot fabric while trying to sew.

#step 2: Ready to Sew
Place your straight pins along the outer edges of your blanket, about 6 inches apart. Leave a 10" inch opening on one side, this is where you will turn the blanket inside out.

Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew along the edge of the blanket. Once you have sewn all the way around, trim the rounded edges so that they lay flat - but be careful not to snip the stitches.

#step 3: Turn the blanket 'right-side out'
Pull your blanket right-side out through the 10" opening you left prior to sewing. Go around the edges of your blanket with your Iron to flatten the seams. Remember to iron only the fleece/cotton material - the Minky Dot fabric will not do well under the direct heat of your Iron.

Turn down the edges of your 10" opening, pin and sew to close.
Note: Option to stuff the blanket with cotton batting for a little more cushion. If you would like to do this, stuff the blanket before you close the 10" opening.

#step 4: Finishing Your Blanket
Place your straight pins around the exterior edges of your blanket again to sew a top-stitch to secure the blanket.

Et voila! You're done the blanket and ready to gift it to a little one with love!

Happy Sewing!
awaLL

#sewing: Easy Summer Tote

August 10, 2014 Project: 
This summer I bought some fabric with an amazing print from our local Fabricland, and i knew i had to use it for a tote bag. I searched through Pinterest and found a great pattern to try out. Given the number of projects I have tackled - especially with zippers - i felt confident in trying out this new project. The tutorial I used for my template is from Sew Mama Sew.

Materials Needed:
- 1.5 yard of fabric (the leftover will allow for pockets and straps)
- 9" zipper (for pocket) and 14" zipper (for bag)
- Rotary Cutter and Mat
- Ruler/Measuring Tape
- Iron and Ironing Board
- Sewing Machine
- Thread (match or opposite for a creative stitch)
- Scissors
- Pins

#step 1: Prepare Fabric
Cut two pieces of each size from your fabric
- 20" x 21" for the body of the bag
- 5" x 26" for the handles (if you plan to do one long strap instead of two handles, double the size and keep two if you would like for it to be a strong, sturdy handle)
- 10" x 10" for a pocket (i made mine an interior pocket instead of the outer pocket pictured in the original tutorial, and i added a zipper)

#step 2: Make the Pocket
Even though i sewed the pocket into the inside of the bag, I followed the step as per the original tutorial to ensure my pocket was strong. To prepare the pocket, take the 10" x 10" pieces and face the right sides (which will be the outside design of your pocket) together face down. sew around all the sides using a 1/2" seam allowance, but leave a small (2-3") opening for turning the pocket inside out after you are done.

Note: If you are planning to attach the pocket on the outside of your bag and would like for the pattern of your fabric to match up nicely, be sure to do this when you lay them right side down and line up as you wish to see them on the outside of the bag.

Clip the corners of the pocket and push the corners out (a chopstick, pencil or your finger works nicely to do this). Turn the pocket inside out (right sides of fabric facing out now), sew along the top seam to close it and prepare to attach to the bag.

Note: I added a zipper to my pocket on the inside of the bag and here's how:
Take your 10" zipper, lay zipper side up with one edge covered by the top of your pocket and sew along this edge to attach zipper to pocket.

#step 3: Attach Pocket to Tote
Using one of your 20" x 21" pieces, place your (now) 9" x 9" pocket on your panel with the right sides facing up. Make sure the top of your pocket is parallel to the 20" sides of your tote. 

Measure in 5.5" from each 21" side and 6" from the top and bottom of the bag. Pin pocket into place
Sew the three sides of your pocket in place using a 1/8" seam allowance. Next sew along the top of the zipper (without fabric covering it) to attach the sipper fully to the bag.

#step 4: Complete the body of Tote
First, place the two 20" x 21" pieces of fabric with wrong sides facing together. Sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance. 

Then turn your tote inside out, lay it out with the right sides together and all the seams at the sides. Again you might want to use a chopstick/pen/your finger to push out your corners.

Now sew along your three edges with a 3/8" seam allowance. This will provide you with a "french seam" which creates a crisp, clean seam to your tote.

With your tote inside out, take one corner and open it up into a triangle. You may have to feel around to align the seams nicely and it will form a point in the fabric when the seams are lined up on top of one another. Measure 2.5" down from the top of the point and draw a line. Sew along this line. 
Repeat these steps for the other corner of your bag and set aside for your handles.

#step 5: Make the Handles
With your iron, press both 5" x 26" (or your double size piece of fabric) in half lengthwise.
Open up and press both sides of each handle in toward the centre with your iron (creates two folds rather than one).
Next fold in half again and with your iron press along the centre crease again.
Sew as close as you can along the sides of each handle

#step 6: Attach the Handles and Top Zipper
With your tote inside out, create a 1.5" hem along the top of your tote by folding down the top raw edge 1/2" and press with your iron. Fold down another 1.5" and press again

Note: If you are planning to have a zipper at the top of the tote like mine, do these steps prior to attaching the handles.
Place zipper face down with the bottom edge of zipper lined up with the top edge of one side of the tote. Sew zipper.

Next, line the other edge of the zipper up with the top of the other side of the tote - zipper edge facing down on the wrong side of the tote fabric and sew.
When you turn the tote inside out to have the right sides of the fabric facing outwards, the zipper will naturally face up. 

Attach the Handles
With your tote inside out (zipper open), place your handle by measuring in 5" from each side of the tote. This should leave a 6" space in the middle between the two handle ends. Repeat handle placement and pin on the other side of the tote. Once pinned in place, sew a strong triple stitch to secure the handles in place.

#step 7: Finish up the Tote
Turn your tote inside out push out the corners, test your zipper, etc. If you find that the sides of your tote are not staying in place as well, feel free to sew along the side seams again on the outside of the tote. This is where you can use a different style of stitch and a thread colour that stands out - more so for aesthetic purposes.