#sewing: Festive Holiday Table Runner

Why go out and buy a table runner for the Holidays when you can whip one up in a jiffy!?

Materials Needed:
* 1.5m of Quilted Batting Fabric
* 1.5m of Holiday fabric
* 2m of Braided edging
* Thread
* Rotary Cutter and cutting mat
* Iron and ironing board
* Pins

The amount of fabric I purchased was enough to make two table runners and 4 place mats in the end.

#step 1: prepare fabric
measure the desired length of your table runner by measuring the length of your table. Mine was about 6ft in length and I shortened up the width to 22"
Using your rotary cutter and cutting mat, trim your fabric to the desired length and widths.

#step 2: prepare to sew
place your Quilted Batting fabric on a even surface, then place the Holiday Fabric with right-side facing down on the quilted batting fabric. Pin into place, leaving a 4" opening along one of your edges to turn the table runner right-side out.

#step 3: sew together
sew along your three edges, leaving the 4" gap along one edge.
turn the table runner right-side out, lay flat and pin the 4" gap closed to sew along this edge

#step 4: finish with Braided edging
Take your Braided edging and pin into place along the edges of your table runner. Sew into place for a nice finish.

Et voila! You're all done!

Happy Holidays

Festive Candle Holders and Table Runner

It's Beginning to Look a Lot like Christmas

Happy #sewing!

<3 awaLL

#knitting: Toque without Circular Needles

Last winter I made my first attempt using circular knitting needles and failed miserably. I couldn't figure out how to get the pattern to stop curling and got tangled up. So I gave up and stuck to the scarf and headband patterns I had mastered instead.

But at family Christmas, my boyfriend's Nana brought a bag of knitting and told us to pick whatever we wanted. I grabbed a pair of mittens and a matching toque because I figured I was FAR from making my own at that rate... I expressed my frustration with circular needles and told Nana that I would love to learn one day rather than give up. Much to my surprise, Nana had a pattern for a toque that did not require the use of circular needles!!!!! HALLELUJAH!

So I have some awesome yarn from Michael's Craft Store and I'm ready to give it a go... Here's the pattern and I'll post an update once I have tackled (and successfully knitted, I hope) my first toque.

Loops & Threads Country Loom - super bulky yarn

Pattern: 

Use 2-5mm Knitting Needles

 

Cast on 78 sts

1st row: K2 *P2,K2  - repeat from * to end of row

2nd row:*P2 K2  repeat to end of row

Repeat these 2 rows  until work measures about 11" (28cm)

Start to shape top of toque:

1st row: *K2 tog, P2tog  Repeat  from * to last 2 sts, K2tog   (39 sts)

2nd row: P1 K1 to last st P1

3rd row: K1 P1 to end of row

4th row: P1 K1 to last st P1

5th row: K1 P1 to end of row

6th row: P1 K1 to last st P1

7th row: * K2tog  repeat from * to last st, K1   (20 sts)

8th row: Purl

9th row: (k2tog ) 10 times. Break yarn, leaving a long end and thread it through the remaining sts, and pull it tight

Fasten off and sew center back seam.

#knitting: Throw Blanket

My knitting projects have been limited to scarves and headbands in my few years of experience, so I thought I would get adventurous and knit a blanket. I started the blanket with great ambition and three balls of yarn. Well I quickly learned that a blanket would require MANY more balls of yarn. So after a couple of trips to Michael's (after picking up the wrong colour on the first trip), I now have a blanket. 

Here's what I learned...

Materials Needed:
- Yarn (I used Loops & Thread brand from Michael's Craft Store; Cozy Wool, Super Bulky 6; 104 yards/95m)
2 balls for bottom blocking strip at each end
2 balls for blocking strip after that
4 balls of yarn for the middle section)

- Knitting needles (I used size US 19 or 15mm)

Cast On about 100 stitches
Knit stitch from start to finish on row 1
K1, P1, K1, P1, continue this pattern to the end of Row 2 and 3
Knit stitch from start to finish on row 4
K1, P1, K1, P1, continue this pattern to the end of Row 5 and 6
Repeat this pattern until the end
Bind off on last row

For my blanket, I went back after I finished the blanket to bind off on the first Row and along the sides. I did this by picking up the stiches on one needle and binding off on the other. 

But what I'm wondering is, what if I bind off on the last stitch when I reached the end of a row? I wonder if this will make the edges of the blanket finish nicely to look like there is a border...
This is where I am still learning, so I welcome feedback from the Knitting Community to help me out!

My First Knitted Throw Blanket 2014

Happy Knitting
<3 awaLL

#DIYartProject: Fabric Covered Canvas

With Christmas around the corner next month, I started thinking of DIY Projects I could craft up as gift ideas for family and friends. I turned to Pinterest and found some special fabric-art canvases and decided this would be a perfect gift for all the married couples in my life. A project like this can add up quickly in the $$ department, so part of this post is to share how I created the canvas gifts but also how to save a few dollars while doing it.

Materials Needed:

- Art Canvas (8"x10" for the smaller ones; 12"x16" for the larger ones)

- Fabric or Burlap (cut to 12"x14" or 16"x20")

- Rotary Cutter and cutting mat (I used the same one I use for sewing projects)

- Staple Gun & Staples

- Wooden letters

- Acrylic Paint

- Paint brushes

- Decorative ribbon, accent leaves or holly

- E6000 Industrial Strength Adhesive

Where to purchase:

Dollarama

8"x10" Canvas ($1.50 each)

12"x16" Canvas ($2.00 each)

Acrylic Paint ($1.00 each)

Paint Brushes ($1.25 a pack)

Walmart

Wooden Letters ($1.47 each)

Fabricland

Burlap 0.5mx1.5m ($12.00)

Fabric (for these projects I used fabric pieces from my collection for sewing)

Michaels Craft Store

Grey & White Chevron fabric 1.5 yards ($7.00)

Holiday accents ($0.60-$1.00 each)

Decorative Ribbon - used to frame the outside edge of the canvas ($4.00 each)

I made 5 small canvases and 3 larger canvases with the above supplies. So each canvas works out to be about $12.00 per small canvas & $15.00 for all three larger canvases.

Sizing Burlap to fit Canvas

Steps for putting the canvases together:

#step 1: cut fabric or burlap to fit the canvas block

Using my rotary cutter and cutting mat, I cut up all the fabric/burlap pieces first.

Attach the fabric/burlap to the canvas blocks using your Staple Gun. After you attach one side, pull the fabric tight and do the opposite end, then fold over each of the side (length wise) and attach. 

Painting the Wooden Letters

#step 2: wooden letters

Using your acrylic paint, cover the wooden letters with the paint colour you desire. *Note: you might need to sand down the rough edges on the wooden letter for a smoother paint finish.

Set aside to let dry

#step 3: paint on the fabric/burlap

For these gifts, I decide I would write the couple's last name and the year they were married directly onto the fabric/burlap. I am blessed with nice penmanship so I did not use any templates, but I would recommend this because it will help you stay within the lines. Painting onto the burlap was tricky.

Set aside to let dry

#step 4: finishing touches

Once your wooden letter and the other paint is dried, take your Industrial Strength Adhesive (Super Glue was not strong enough), and attach the wooden letter and decorative pieces. Set aside to dry.

*Note: Industrial Strength Adhesive is very strong (fumes) so best to do this in an area where you can open a window or set aside to dry outdoors (like a garage).

For our Best Friends New Home

For the In-Laws

3 Canvases for our Bedroom

#sewing: Passport/Travel Wallet take 2

I decided to take advantage of a rainy day to get caught up on some projects. I have made two of these passport travel wallets in the past (with a slightly different tutorial - see earlier Blog Posts) but have been meaning to sew one for myself. We went away on vacation last week and man I sure could have used mine when trying to keep track of both of our passports and boarding passes. 

This particular passport wallet was mirrored after the original blog post on Joann Fabric & Craft Store. 

Note: For my wallet I chose to use all one pattern of fabric this time. I have made ones in the past that had contrasting colours and they look great, I was just (a) in love with the fabric I chose (I have made curtains for our kitchen from this pattern in the past) and (b) didn't have any fabric that went well with it.

Materials Needed:
- 1m of fabric
- 1 package of interfacing fabric
- thread
- sewing machine
- rotary cutter & mat
- ruler
- straight pins
- scissors
- iron & ironing board
- bias tape (for a border)
- velcro or a button for your snap

#step 1: Prepare your Fabric pieces

Preparing Fabric Pieces

Front & Back Cover and Lining: cut two pieces of fabric 11"L x 11"W and two pieces of interfacing fabric 11"L x 11"W

Left Flap divider, cut two pieces of fabric 11"L x 5.75"W. Draw a curve on the upper right hand corner of both pieces (I used the edge of a bowl; and make sure your corner is on the right edge of a piece of fabric with right-side facing up and a right-side facing down. Otherwise your flap will have the wrong-side on the inside of flap... like mine now does! Whoops!)
Cut one piece of interfacing 11"L x 5.75"W

Passport pocket: cut two 4.75"L x 5"W pieces of fabric
if you would like to add a second passport pocket on top of the one you just cut, cut one piece of 3"L x 4"W clear plastic vinyl. I did not do this step.

Ironing Fusible Interfacing to Fabric

Cardholder Pocket: cut two pieces of fabric 6"L x 3.5"W

Right Flap Divider: cut two pieces of fabric 11"L x 5"W and one piece of interfacing 11"L x 5"W.

With your iron, set the iron to "Wool" heat setting and fuse interfacing to both front & back cover, left flap divider and right flap divider following the instructions on your packaging.


#step 2: Passport Pocket
With right-sides facing together, and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - sew passport pocket pieces. Leave a 2" opening at the top edge of pocket. Turn right side out and press with your iron. I used a pen to make sure the corners were pressed out flat before ironing. 
Edge stitch top opening closed only.

Sizing Passport Pocket

Make sure your passport pocket will fit a Passport first! 

Centre pocket on the left divider 3/4" up from the bottom raw edge. Edge stitch the pocket onto left divider at the sides and bottom of pocket.

With right sides together and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch left divider pieces. Leave  small opening on curved edge below the curve. Turn right side out, use a pen to push out the corners to be flat, press with your iron. 
Note: If you chose to add a second Passport pocket with the vinyl, be sure to only press with your iron on the backside of the divider and ensure you do not melt the vinyl.

Edge stitch curved edge (inside edge of divider) to close up.

#step 3: Cardholder Pocket
With right sides facing together, and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch cardholder pocket pieces. Leave a 1.5" opening at the top edge of pocket. Turn right side out and press with your iron. Repeat steps with pen to make sure corners are pressed out flat before ironing.

Place cardholder pocket on interfaced right divider about 3/4" up from the bottom raw edge and 3/4" from right raw edge of divider. Edge stitch cardholder pocket onto right divider at the top, right side and bottom of the cardholder - leaving the left edge of cardholder pocket open. This will be the pocket opening. 

Placing Cardholder Pocket on Divider

Mark the centre of the cardholder pocket (approximately 2.75" in middle). Stitch a straight horizontal line to create pocket divider for cards.

With right sides facing together, and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch the right divider pieces. Leave a 4" opening at the inside edge (left side of divider). Turn right side out, push corners out with a pen to lay flat before pressing with iron. Press with iron to flatten out. Edge stitch the left side (inside edge) of right divider.

#step 4: Button Loop/Velcro Strap
Fold 1"x4" piece of fabric in half lengthwise (when folded in half, width should be 1/2"). Press with your iron. Open and fold along long edges in to meet at the centre crease. Press with iron again. 
Fold in half lengthwise again so that long folded edges are even. Press with iron & stitch along 4" long edge.

Note: I added bias tape to the outside edge of my strap to add decorative feature. Follow the same steps as above, and when you stitch your bias tape will be stitched on as well.

Velcro Strap to close Wallet

I used velcro to fasten my pouch. Stitch Velcro (sticky side) to one end of strap. Wrap strap around the wallet to align sticky-Velcro with the soft-Velcro where it sticks to. Stitch the soft-Velcro patch to the opposite end of strap. Stitch a horizontal straight line to hold strap to the folded edge of wallet. 

#step 5: Finishing Touches
With right sides facing together and keeping a 1/2" seam allowance - stitch Front & Back cover. Leave an opening to pull fabric through to right side out. Pull through, use a pen to press corners out to lay flat, press with iron.

Passport/Travel Wallet

Once front and back cover are sewn together, place and pin the left & right dividers on the inside of your passport case. Make sure all edges are even. Mine don't always line up perfectly, but you can fold the edges in to hide this when you are stitching.


Edge stitch around all outside edges, catching both dividers.

Happy Travelling!
<3 awaLL

#cleaning: The Honest Company (a review)

In September I signed up for a free trial of The Honest Company Essentials Bundle after using/hearing about their products when visiting friends in Michigan in August. I don't usually "buy into" things that are widely shared and advertised on social media sites (you know what I'm talking about, all those ads that pop up on Facebook newsfeeds and/or Twitter feeds)... But this one I must say, I'm a fan!

Things I love about The Honest Company and their products: 

The Honest Company

- the advertising for a Free Trial was honest. I only paid $6 in shipping for a trial of the Essentials Bundle, and received travel size versions of their Face/Body Lotion, Shampoo/Body Wash, Healing Balm, Hand Soap and Multi-Surface Cleaner.

- I called their Customer Service to inquire about continuing to order the Essential Bundles and whether I was now locked in forever and if I had to order every 4 weeks. Their Customer Service clients were awesome! She explained to me that I could space my orders out up to 6 weeks online, or call to increase the time in between if I wish. I could put in one order or a few orders in a year if I wanted, there was no minimum. And I was not locked in to anything, at any time I could call and ask to cancel if I was no longer satisfied/interested.

Cool!
So I ordered an Essentials Bundle with five full-sized products for $50 (after tax and shipping costs). Not too bad if you ask me!

Products I have tried and would like to rave about...
#1: Face & Body Lotion
I have sensitive skin and a lot of moisturizers irritate my skin and cause breakouts and my skin to dry out. Yes, even some of the ones that boast they are for sensitive skin. 'Honestly' (pun intended) I am so satisfied with this product for my face I will not go back to anything else. No breakouts, my skin is glowing and feels so great all the time.
Sold.

#2: Healing Balm
I still have the travel size on the go because I use it for particular things. No lie, I got some awful blisters from my curling shoes this August on both of my heels and Polysporin was not doing the trick to heal these suckers. Once they were at the stage that they were mostly drying out and painful, I applied some of the Healing Balm and it seriously cleared them right up! (after a few applications of course). So my boyfriend burns himself by handling a pan out of the oven, I told him to apply the Healing Balm - et voila after a few times it cleared up. I'm not sure what magical healing power is in this stuff but it's straight out of a Disney film!

#3: Shampoo/Body Wash
I used the travel size bottle while on vacation last week and it did the trick. Smells nice and didn't find it was anything out of the ordinary. I also have a favourite shampoo/conditioner so I didn't bother trying it in my hair.

#4: Hand Soap - nothing outstanding about it but it smells great and does the trick, so great addition to the Essentials Bundle as an option when I don't need anything else

#5: Multi-Surface Cleaner
I use this in our bathroom, kitchen, my desk at work, the coffee table and dinning room table at home, my dressers, etc. It's fantastic, smells wonderful (citrus grapefruit scent) and literally cleans anything in the house with a beautiful shine!

#6: Bathroom Cleaner
Minty Eucalyptus scent, cleans everything right up and makes me feel good about using it on a surface we interact with every day because I'm not fearful of the strong cleaning agents used in other products like Vim.

#7: Bubble Bath - glorious! Very sudsy - so don't need a lot in a bath. Nice Grapefruit scent to it too.

#8: Stain Remover
Okay so this stuff is another miracle product. While we were on vacation last week I got some Papa John's pizza garlic sauce on my favourite white t-shirt, I was ticked. And this wasn't any creamy garlic dipping sauce like Pizza Pizza, it was oily. So I spot cleaned with water at the hotel and hoped that my stain remover would do the trick when I got home. I applied once and washed it, almost came out. Applied & washed again and from what I can tell - the stains are gone! Amazing! It boasts being able to take wine out of furniture/carpet and remove blood stains - it's the truth!

I'm looking forward to the arrival of my next bundle this week which will include the 4-in-1 Laundry Packs (pods), Toilet Cleaner, Window & Glass Cleaner, Mandarin Foaming Hand Soap and Air & Fabric Freshener spray in Lavender Vanilla.

Check out The Honest Company - you won't regret it! Click here for my personal invitation page.

Happy Cleaning!
awaLL 

#sewing: Soft & Cuddly Baby Blanket

September 28, 2014 Project:
In the past year, our Book Club has expanded to a Junior Book Club section with two sweetheart babies and we have one on the way (very soon). So naturally some of my #sewing projects of late have taken on a baby theme because so many of the popular baby finds are easy to replicate and so much more fun when it is made with love for your friend. 

Last week a baby shower was hosted for our Book Club lady and her little one on the way, so I decided to whip up a soft & cuddly baby blanket - pattern tested and approved by my niece since she has her own which she loves. (The Minky Dot fabric is so soft it feels like a puppy's ear! I want to make a blanket out of it for myself and wrap up in it!!!) 

The pattern I used for this blanket comes from the Greener Grass blog 

Materials Needed:
- 1.5 yards of light weight, soft fleecy-cotton fabric
- 1.5 yard of Minky Dot material
- Rotary Cutter and Mat
- Ruler
- Safety Pins
- Straight Pins
- Thread
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors
- Iron and Ironing Board

#step 1: Prepare Fabric
Cut a 45" x 45" square from your Fleece Fabric and from your Minky Dot Fabric
Note: i allowed for a few extra inches on either side because the Minky Dot fabric was a little trickier to cut since it is much closer to a 'silky' texture and slides around.

Minky Dot Fabric

Fleece Cotton & Minky Dot fabrics

Once you have your squares cut, create a rounded corner (on each corner) by simply tracing something with a round edge, like a bowl and cut. Repeat for corners of all fabric.

Next, lay your fabrics out with right sides facing together. Don't worry if your edges don't line up perfectly - you can trim them later and/or fold them into the blanket after sewing and turning it inside out.

Use the safety pins to secure the fabrics together, this will help keep the cotton fabric from slipping too much on the Minky Dot fabric while trying to sew.

#step 2: Ready to Sew
Place your straight pins along the outer edges of your blanket, about 6 inches apart. Leave a 10" inch opening on one side, this is where you will turn the blanket inside out.

Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew along the edge of the blanket. Once you have sewn all the way around, trim the rounded edges so that they lay flat - but be careful not to snip the stitches.

#step 3: Turn the blanket 'right-side out'
Pull your blanket right-side out through the 10" opening you left prior to sewing. Go around the edges of your blanket with your Iron to flatten the seams. Remember to iron only the fleece/cotton material - the Minky Dot fabric will not do well under the direct heat of your Iron.

Turn down the edges of your 10" opening, pin and sew to close.
Note: Option to stuff the blanket with cotton batting for a little more cushion. If you would like to do this, stuff the blanket before you close the 10" opening.

#step 4: Finishing Your Blanket
Place your straight pins around the exterior edges of your blanket again to sew a top-stitch to secure the blanket.

Et voila! You're done the blanket and ready to gift it to a little one with love!

Happy Sewing!
awaLL

#sewing: Easy Summer Tote

August 10, 2014 Project: 
This summer I bought some fabric with an amazing print from our local Fabricland, and i knew i had to use it for a tote bag. I searched through Pinterest and found a great pattern to try out. Given the number of projects I have tackled - especially with zippers - i felt confident in trying out this new project. The tutorial I used for my template is from Sew Mama Sew.

Materials Needed:

- 1.5 yard of fabric (the leftover will allow for pockets and straps)

- 9" zipper (for pocket) and 14" zipper (for bag)

- Rotary Cutter and Mat

- Ruler/Measuring Tape

- Iron and Ironing Board

- Sewing Machine

- Thread (match or opposite for a creative stitch)

- Scissors

- Pins

#step 1: Prepare Fabric

Cut two pieces of each size from your fabric

- 20" x 21" for the body of the bag

- 5" x 26" for the handles (if you plan to do one long strap instead of two handles, double the size and keep two if you would like for it to be a strong, sturdy handle)

- 10" x 10" for a pocket (i made mine an interior pocket instead of the outer pocket pictured in the original tutorial, and i added a zipper)

#step 2: Make the Pocket

Even though i sewed the pocket into the inside of the bag, I followed the step as per the original tutorial to ensure my pocket was strong. To prepare the pocket, take the 10" x 10" pieces and face the right sides (which will be the outside design of your pocket) together face down. sew around all the sides using a 1/2" seam allowance, but leave a small (2-3") opening for turning the pocket inside out after you are done.

Note: If you are planning to attach the pocket on the outside of your bag and would like for the pattern of your fabric to match up nicely, be sure to do this when you lay them right side down and line up as you wish to see them on the outside of the bag.

Clip the corners of the pocket and push the corners out (a chopstick, pencil or your finger works nicely to do this). Turn the pocket inside out (right sides of fabric facing out now), sew along the top seam to close it and prepare to attach to the bag.

Note: I added a zipper to my pocket on the inside of the bag and here's how:

Take your 10" zipper, lay zipper side up with one edge covered by the top of your pocket and sew along this edge to attach zipper to pocket.

#step 3: Attach Pocket to Tote

Using one of your 20" x 21" pieces, place your (now) 9" x 9" pocket on your panel with the right sides facing up. Make sure the top of your pocket is parallel to the 20" sides of your tote. 

Measure in 5.5" from each 21" side and 6" from the top and bottom of the bag. Pin pocket into place

Sew the three sides of your pocket in place using a 1/8" seam allowance. Next sew along the top of the zipper (without fabric covering it) to attach the sipper fully to the bag.

#step 4: Complete the body of Tote

First, place the two 20" x 21" pieces of fabric with wrong sides facing together. Sew together using a 1/4" seam allowance. 

Then turn your tote inside out, lay it out with the right sides together and all the seams at the sides. Again you might want to use a chopstick/pen/your finger to push out your corners.

Now sew along your three edges with a 3/8" seam allowance. This will provide you with a "french seam" which creates a crisp, clean seam to your tote.

With your tote inside out, take one corner and open it up into a triangle. You may have to feel around to align the seams nicely and it will form a point in the fabric when the seams are lined up on top of one another. Measure 2.5" down from the top of the point and draw a line. Sew along this line. 

Repeat these steps for the other corner of your bag and set aside for your handles.

#step 5: Make the Handles

With your iron, press both 5" x 26" (or your double size piece of fabric) in half lengthwise.

Open up and press both sides of each handle in toward the centre with your iron (creates two folds rather than one).

Next fold in half again and with your iron press along the centre crease again.

Sew as close as you can along the sides of each handle

#step 6: Attach the Handles and Top Zipper

With your tote inside out, create a 1.5" hem along the top of your tote by folding down the top raw edge 1/2" and press with your iron. Fold down another 1.5" and press again

Note: If you are planning to have a zipper at the top of the tote like mine, do these steps prior to attaching the handles.

Place zipper face down with the bottom edge of zipper lined up with the top edge of one side of the tote. Sew zipper.

Next, line the other edge of the zipper up with the top of the other side of the tote - zipper edge facing down on the wrong side of the tote fabric and sew.

When you turn the tote inside out to have the right sides of the fabric facing outwards, the zipper will naturally face up. 

Attach the Handles

With your tote inside out (zipper open), place your handle by measuring in 5" from each side of the tote. This should leave a 6" space in the middle between the two handle ends. Repeat handle placement and pin on the other side of the tote. Once pinned in place, sew a strong triple stitch to secure the handles in place.

#step 7: Finish up the Tote

Turn your tote inside out push out the corners, test your zipper, etc. If you find that the sides of your tote are not staying in place as well, feel free to sew along the side seams again on the outside of the tote. This is where you can use a different style of stitch and a thread colour that stands out - more so for aesthetic purposes. 

#sewing: travel case

Original Tutorial can be found here Life in Grace Blog

Materials Needed:
* drapery fabric (for outside layer)
* vinyl or regular fabric (for inside layer)
* zipper (I used a 12" zipper for this bag)
* thread
* sewing machine
* pins
* rotary cutter and cutting mat

#step 1: prepare the fabric
for this case, I cut the squares of fabric to be 12" x 12"
cut four square (two of outside fabric and two of inside layer)
iron the fabric (if needed)
in the original tutorial you will notice that she suggested using strong fusible interfacing to make the bag stronger, but I found by using the drapery fabric for the outside layer it was pretty strong. If you use vinyl for your inside layer (benefits being easy to clean and sturdy fabric) then I don't think the interfacing is necessary either. If you do use the vinyl, purchase some Heat n' Bond Iron On Vinyl to attach the interfacing to the vinyl instead of sewing it on.

#step 2: attaching zipper to fabric
lay your outer fabric right side up, and the zipper face down on the top edge (line it up edge on edge, so that when you flip the zipper over while sewed on, there is an edge of the zipper available to sew the other outer fabric square on)
sew the zipper to the first square of outer fabric
now take one square of your inside fabric/lining, lay it face down on lined up with the edge of the zipper and sew
open it up and you will have your outer fabric (right side up) and inside layer (right side up) laying flat out on the table surface.

now repeat the above steps to attach the last two pieces of fabric to the zipper. make sure that your fabrics are facing the correct way when you open it all up - I made this error and had to use the stitch ripper :)

#step 3: edging the zipper
carefully stitch along the edge of the zipper, along the outer layer only - the inner layer should not be included in this stitching
open the zipper half way

#step 4: sewing the bag together
open the bag so that the fabrics are laying with the right side facing inside. so you will have both inner layer squares on one side of the zipper and the outer layers on the other side
pin the outside edges to prepare to sew
sew along the outside and bottom edges of the outer layer
repeat for the inner layer but leave an opening about 2-4" wide, this is where you will pull the bag through to turn it inside out (to be right side out again)

#step 5: cutting the corners
at each of the corners of the bag, pinch the bottom edge and side edge together to form a triangle. pinch it down and sew a 2" seam before you cut off the corner at the seam (this is where the rotary cutter is brilliant to cut through the layers of fabric)
repeat this step on all four corners

#step 6: turning the bag inside out-right
now you're going to use the 2-4" hole you left in the inner layer fabric on the bottom. stuff your outside layer through the zipper you left open and through the hole. sew the hole on the inside layer closed before stuffing it into the outside layer  to leave your bag complete.

12" Zipper - 12"x12" Paisley

14" Zipper - 14"x14" Paris Pattern

Paris Pattern

Paris Pattern with Gothic inside

happy sewing
<3 awaLL

#sewing: easy-sew curtains

the story of these curtains:

having a new skill-set like sewing has been amazing. whenever i see something that i would like to purchase, i look at it through the lens of "how can i make that" and it's a wonderful thing! a trip to Fabricland et voila i have the fabrics in hand to tackle these amazing projects.

last week we ventured to Fabricland with the goal of purchasing fabrics to make curtains. pretty sure the ones that were in our kitchen and bathroom are from the 70's and original owners, so it was time to be replaced. this month we are replacing the windows in our bedroom, spare room and bathroom & afterwards doing some painting and hanging new curtains elsewhere. since i had splurged on full-length curtains for the other two rooms, i thought i would try sewing ones for our smaller windows.

my last few trips to Fabricland have been for simple fabrics to make infinity scarves or travel wallets or makeup bags, so i have stuck to one particular area of the store. on this night i went to the "home decor" and "drapery" section of fabrics and fell in love. there were so many fantastic bright colours (reminded me of Vera Bradley patterns), Paris themes (which i most definitely bought) and great textures. i went in with the intent to purchase fabric only for curtains, and came out with three new fabrics to make oversized travel cases (like make-up bags we saw at the One of a Kind Show) - stay tuned.

so i started yesterday with the curtains for our kitchen and bathroom, and i am in love with them. whenever i walk into the kitchen i sigh out of love.

Materials Needed:
* drapery/home decor fabric (for my windows - 4" L x 3" W - i purchased 1.5m of fabric for each and had leftovers)
* thread
* sewing machine
* pins
* rotary cutter/mat

#step 1: prepare the fabric
measure the length and width of your window
you will want to leave excess fabric to accommodate the top fold (for the curtain rod) and the edges which you will have about 1" fold to create a nice trim. so add about an extra 12" to your measurement
cut your fabric to the desired sizes (using a rotary cutter makes it so easy and gives you clean cuts)
iron the fabric if there are big creases

#step 2: the trim
start with one side (length-wise) and fold the edge of the fabric in about 1", pin into place
sew two seams (an outside closer to the cut edge, and inner seam closer to the fold) to secure the trim into place
repeat on the other side length-wise

#step 3: the curtain rod fold
i took my curtain and held it up to the window again, but this time created the curtain rod fold to ensure that the curtains were not going to be too short. for my bathroom curtain i must have forgotten to add the extra 12" because they were a bit too short. but it all worked out since my curtain rod was tinsy-tiny so the fold did not have to be too big.

for the size of my curtain rod, the folds ended up being 1.5" wide (on bathroom curtains) and 2" wide (on kitchen curtains)

fold over, pin into place (be sure to measure as you pin to ensure your fold is still the same size), sew along the cut fabric edge leaving space for your curtain rod to slide through

#step 4: bottom edge trim
finish up your curtain panel with a trim along the bottom edge of your curtain. the width of this fold can be as big or small as you wish. Again would be a good idea to hang your curtains as is up on the window to make sure you do not leave them too short before you sew the bottom edge trim.

#step 5: repeat for second panel (if desired) and hang to admire 

The Kitchen (fabric from Fabricland (Canada)

The Bathroom (fabric from Fabricland (Canada)

happy sewing!

<3 awaLL

#baking: Easter Cupcakes

Cupcakes for Easter Dinner

#bakingwithawaLL: Easter Cupcakes for family dinner

These were a hit!
i am normally very critical of my vanilla cakes/cupcakes because most of the recipes i have tried will dry out quickly, and vanilla cake should be moist and flavourful for a long time!

so i'm going to share the AWESOME recipe i found with y'all (from add a pinch)

happy baking
<3 awaLL

Cake/Cupcake Ingredients:
* 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
* 1/2 cup vegetable shortening
* 3 cups granulated sugar
* 5 eggs, room temperature
* 3 cups all-purpose flour
* 2 tsp baking powder
* 1/4 tsp salt
* 1/2 cup whole milk, room temperature
* 1/2 cup buttermilk, room temperature
* 2 tsp vanilla extract

(*note: I could not find buttermilk anywhere at my grocery store leading up to Easter... so instead I used 1/2 cup of 2% milk and 1/2 cup of skim milk and it still turned out just fine)

#step 1: prep the pans
preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
prepare three 9-inch round cake pans with nonstick baking spray or coated well with shortening or butter and floured, taking care to remove all excess flour.
if you are making cupcakes, this recipe will make 24 big cupcakes, or 36 small cupcakes.

#step 2: mixing the wet ingredients
cream together butter and shortening until light and fluffy with an electric mixer
slowly add sugar one cup at a time, making sure to fully incorporate each cup before adding another
add eggs in one at a time, making sure each egg is fully mixed in before adding another

#step 3: mixing the dry ingredients & milk mixture
in a separate bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and salt
pour the milks and vanilla into a measuring cup and whisk together with a fork
add to the sugar/butter/egg mixture alternately with the dry ingredients (beginning and ending with the dry ingredient mixture)

#step 4: combining all the ingredients well
gently stir all ingredients until well combined - scrape down the sides and bottom of bowl to make sure you have all the ingredients mixed in.

#step 5: pouring the batter
evenly distribute cake batter between the cake pans (or muffin cups) and place in the oven
bake for 25-30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the centre of the cakes comes out clean
remove and allow to cool slightly in pans for about 5 minutes, then cool completely on a wire rack
*it's best not to frost the cake or cupcakes until the cakes have cooled completely to avoid the frosting from melting

Buttercream Frosting Ingredients:
Serves 4.5 cups
* 1 cup butter (2 sticks), softened
* 3-4 cups confectioner's sugar (icing sugar), sifted
* 2 tsp vanilla
* pinch salt
* 2-3 tbsp 2% milk or heavy cream or half-and-half cream (I used 2% milk)

#step 1: preparing the butter mixture
place softened butter into a bowl and mix with an electric mixer (medium setting), creaming the butter until it is smooth and has lightened in colour (about 3 minutes).

#step 2: adding the sugar
add icing sugar, 1/2 cup at a time
after each cup has been incorporated, turn the mixer onto the highest speed setting and beat for about 10 seconds to lighten the frosting.
continue until all of the icing sugar has been mixed in.

#step 3: final touches
add vanilla and a pinch of salt, combine until all mixed in
add milk/cream, until the frosting has reached the preferred consistency
for a firmer frosting, add more icing sugar, a 1/4 cup at a time
for a softer frosting, add more milk/cream, a tbsp at a time

#sewing: zippered poof pouch

I tried a new pattern for the zippered poof pouch tonight since my last attempt at Christmas was a huge flop... turns out this project is just a little tougher for a beginner sewer like me, but i won't give up!

here is the original tutorial from OH SO PRETTY blog which i reference below with some of my own modified notes (including some of the things i learned)

Materials Needed
* 14" zipper
* two pieces of fabric cut into 9" x 12" (outside fabric can be tougher material for the poof to be more sturdy)
* bias tape
* pins
* thread
* sewing machine

#step one: prepare fabric
cut your 9" x 12" pieces, iron the creases out and set aside

#step 2: attaching to the zipper
lay your outside fabric face up on the table
place the zipper on top, lined up with the top edge of the fabric
lay your inside fabric (patterned side facing down) on top, with the top edge lined up with the top of zipper
pin the top edge of everything together
sew along the top edge

#step 3: preparing the pouch
lay both sides of fabric flat out on the table
along the outside layer fabric, sew along the edge of the zipper to avoid getting caught in the zipper
fold the outside layer fabric in half, and line the fabric up with the opposite edge of the zipper
sew along the edge
do the same with the inside layer fabric on the other side (attaching to the same edge of the zipper as above)
sew along the edge again

#step 4: unzip the zipper & creating the pouch
unzip the zipper fully
sew along the edge of the fabric by the zippers edge to create a seam
zip the zipper up and turn the fabric inside out
now fold the sides into itself (like wrapping a present to create the triangle folds at the end of a gift)
pin it down on both ends
cut a 2 inch piece of bias tape and fold in half
slide it into the pouch on top of the zipper into the folded mess. the raw edges of the bias tape should be in line with the edges of the fabric
*repeat on the other side to have to "pull accents" on the poof pouch*

#step 5: putting it all together
sew all the edges together
make sure you unzip the zipper a little bit so that you don't sew it up on the outside of the pouch
trim the edges so they are all even. if you have excess on the end of the zipper, fold over and sew along the edge to conceal the zipper into the inside of the pouch
sew bias tape along the edges to make them look finished (i skipped this step and will likely go back and add it to make the edges cleaner in the inside of the pouch)

turn the pouch inside out and you should have a finished product!

fun fabrics!

my first zippered poof pouch

happy sewing

<3 awaLL

#sewing: case for mini Kobo

i used the same pattern for the iPad case (see below), adjusted the size, et voila! I have a sweet little pouch/case for my new mini Kobo!

The right fit - projects with awaLL

Mini Kobo Case - projects with awaLL

snug as a bug - projects with awaLL